Wednesday, 27 February 2013

A day at Matière Noire's studio

Last Friday, I had the honour of meeting Matière Noire's designer, Cécile Raizonville, in her studio while glancing at her fabulous Spring/Summer 13 pieces.
We spent two hours talking about the start of her line, her first show she presented during Montreal Fashion Week & connection with European Fashion.

It was in July 2012 that she launched her first look-book for her SS13 line. As I sat down with her, I couldn't help but ask about the preparation for her MFW FW13 show. 
Did you know that Cécile participated in a contest judged by a jury in order to get her place at MFW? It was at the end of November of 2012 that she took the amazing opportunity and  decided to take a chance and pursue her true passion and make the public aware of it. 
This talented designer definitely had her mind set on putting her foot in this rapid ever-lasting industry. Although the timeline was constraint, she succeeded by putting on a creative show. Cécile barely had a full month and a half to put it all together. To read more about her show, click here.
  She is also looking forward to participate and showcase her line in the upcoming Fashion Art Toronto (FAT) event.

Behind the name hides a vivid team that helps this line grow by the day. The designer has a small but hard working team:

Olfa Khenessi, Communication
Alice Chipot, Financial Business Affairs & Online Boutique
Anne Sophie Lacroix, Accessory Development
Amélie Dionoski, Specialized in knits (Centre de Textile Contemporain)
You can visit her Facebook page here.
2-3 seamstresses (Depending on the line)
-She also works with a local photographers.-

She explained to me that a typical timeline to create a collection resembles to the following:
It takes approximately one month to work on appropriate fabric and inspiration research.
It takes one month to design and test all details.
3 months of clothing development
1 month's length to present the pieces (Fashion Show) and to sell them afterwards in a showroom.
In total, a rough six month is estimated to get a new collection up and running.

Her inspiration is very exotic. She is driven by European Fashion due to the use of neutrals contrasted with strong colours. She also confirmed that she was greatly inspired while living and studying in Barcelona for a few years.

Cécile definitely has an avid eye for detail and unusual geometric shapes. Whichever season she may be designing for, we are sure to see texture and contrast in her one of a kind pieces.

The first example of what I like to call the texture game, is seen in this 100% silk midi-length dress with a raw cotton miniskirt over it. The designer spent hours in designing the perfect modern pleats that embellish this dress.

This was a particular dress that instantly caught my eye. I noticed it in the look-book before even laying eyes on it, hanging on the rack.  
A playful piece: two-tone - mixture of fabric - button closure
The draping of this piece is absolutely elegant and can be worn easily. She explained to me that she was inspired by Indian clothing when she created this dress. She has been to many places around the globe and has family spread worldwide. This definitely permits her creativity to have an endless thought process. Tencel (a cellulosic finer obtained from wood pulp using recyclable solvents) was used as the grey fabric and cotton for the black.

Another one of a kind: This fuchsia sleeveless jacket.
Notice the 3D pocket effect?
The fabrics used in this piece were organic cotton and regular cotton for the lining.

Did I mention the bottom was only one piece? Don't let the fabric fool you!
This is another thing I love about the designer: her pieces can easily fool you in a split second. She will instantly combine minimal sportswear and elegance.
The main turquoise piece along with the black upper band are made out of 100% cotton. The grey shorts on the other hand are made of tencel.
Pairing it up with a white top just makes it stand out even more, don't you find?

I believe that this was my "coup de coeur" (instant love).
A mixture of Japanese street style and sportswear inspiration!
This sleeveless detailed piece took over 30 hours to design and get to its final result.
This piece is made out of escutcheon (a shield or emblem bearing a coat of arms).

Finally, she ended her SS13 line with these bottoms (and a few more).
The colour blocking pants are made out of 100% cotton with a little bit of elastane. The shorts are made out of 100% organic cotton.
As you can see, Cécile always makes sure to add a touch of sportswear to her pieces in order to bring out the simplicity out of them so they can be more wearable.
She tries to reach out to a modern contemporary woman by adding a touch of her own taste by keeping it simple, yet eye-catching on the streets.

Like any other designer, she needs a board to start with in order to gather all of her inspirations together. This was her inspiration for FW13.

Approximative Price Range of the collection

Basic T-Shirts: $45.00
Blazers: $150.00
Jackets: $350 - $400.00
Sleeveless Jacket: $400.00
Dresses: $120.00- $600.00
Shorts: $190.00 - $300.00
Pants: $210.00 - $350.00

Overall, I had a wonderful experience visiting Matière Noire's studio. I can honestly say that it helps a lot when you understand a designer's thought process before analyzing his or her line. As a young and new designer, she has a lot of potential and great success ahead of her.

Let's wish her nothing but the best and support her great work!
You can follow Matière Noire on Facebook & Twitter.

Please note that Matière Noire is still not officially seen in Montreal stores but will open its online boutique by mid-march.
Until then, don't miss out the chance to browse the fashionable website.

Support . Love . Fashion

                                                                                JKal -xo

1 comment:

  1. ah cool feature!